Chapter 3
Roots in Vihiga
Minage and her family travel to their ancestral home in Vihiga County. She meets her grandmother, Epiness Minage, and other relatives, experiencing an emotional reunion and finally visiting her father's grave.
The bus pulled away from the bustling chaos of Machakos Country Bus Station, leaving behind the shouts of touts and the lingering smell of diesel. It was a grey morning in Nairobi, but as the city faded into the distance, a different kind of light began to dawn within me. July 10th, 2011. The date itself felt weighty, a marker of a journey I had dreamed of for years, yet one tinged with the deep ache of loss. Beside me, my mother sat quietly, her gaze fixed on the passing landscape, a familiar stillness about her. My brother, Ken, was a reassuring presence across the aisle, his usual easy smile replaced by a thoughtful expression. Aunt Phyllis, my father's sister, occupied the seat next to him, her presence a bridge to a past I was only just beginning to understand. The journey to Vihiga County, to Madzuu Kedeta Village, felt less like a trip and more like a pilgrimage.
The hours stretched on, the landscape gradually shifting from the urban sprawl to rolling hills and fertile farmlands. The bus, a lumbering beast compared to the nimble matatus I was accustomed to, seemed to take an eternity to consume the miles. I found myself lost in thought, the rhythm of the engine a hypnotic backdrop to the swirl of questions in my mind. What would Western Kenya truly be like? Not the brief, fleeting glimpses of school holidays in Nairobi, but the heart of my father's heritage. How would his family receive us, these unexpected visitors from a world that had existed apart from theirs for so long? Would I finally feel that elusive sense of belonging, the deep, resonant connection to the roots I had been searching for, it seemed, my entire life? I had travelled before, seen new places, but this was different. This was a journey into the very fabric of my identity, a quest to touch the ground my father had walked, to breathe the air he had breathed.
The air grew warmer, thick with the scent of damp earth and something else, something floral and unfamiliar, as we finally approached our destination. The bus shuddered to a halt, and the world outside seemed to hum with a different energy, a slower, more deliberate pulse. It was around 5:00 p.m. when we disembarked, the late afternoon sun casting long shadows. Our first stop was the home of Andrew Ligale, a name I vaguely recognized from hushed family conversations. It was here that Aunt Rachael lived, my father's sister. As she emerged from the house, her eyes fell upon my mother, and a broad smile, warm and genuine, bloomed on her face.
"Kwani bado unanikumbuka?" she asked, her voice a musical lilt. Do you still remember me?
My mother’s smile mirrored hers as she replied, "Ndiyo." Yes. The greeting was simple, yet it carried the weight of shared history, a silent acknowledgment of a bond that time and distance had not managed to sever. We exchanged warm greetings, the initial awkwardness melting away with each shared word.
From there, it was a short journey to my grandmother's home. The anticipation in my chest tightened with every step. This was it. The woman who had given